Milk rice with fish curry and sambol

This recipe is for milk rice (kiri bath), traditionally a special occasion Sri Lankan dish eaten by itself like cake, or along with curries and sambols. This dish was prepared by Sylvie who I met during my first few days in Sri Lanka. First impressions of Sri Lanka I spend my first few days in…

Husna’s Biryani

Husna Azzan is a great cook. I know this because I was lucky enough to stumble past her house one night and try her urojo, or Zanzibar mix, which her son Ahmed was selling to passers-by from a stall outside their house. After trying the urojo and talking to Ahmed about his mother’s cooking, I…

Octopus Soup

A sure sign we must be nearing the coast is when I step off the bus in Mbeya and see a group of men standing over a table eating and talking animatedly. It’s dark by now and just one bright bulb suspended from a broom stick lights up a rickety wooden table, which on closer…

Moba and Afro’s Swahili Prawns with Coconut Rice

Nine months into the trip and we’ve hit the Tanzanian coast, hallelujah! The wait rewards us with coconut fringed white sand beaches and layer upon layer of crystal blue water, the kind of beaches you see on billboards in London tube stations when it’s pissing it down with rain and has been dark since 3…