Alleppey special duck curry

This rich duck curry comes from Shaila, who was Bhagath’s mother. We could only communicate with smiles and head shakes, but over the four days we stayed with Bhagath, Shaila cooked us all sorts of delicious Keralan meals. This curry is an ‘Alleppey special’ and traditionally eaten on Sundays, much like the Sunday roast. The…

Jaffna Crab Curry

Vasanthy greets me with a smile and a light embrace on the steps of her bungalow. She wears a bright pink spotty dress and her dark blue eyes sparkle – apart from the greying hair tied back in a small bun, you wouldn’t believe she’s 55. It’s been an exciting journey to get here, sitting…

Husna’s Biryani

Husna Azzan is a great cook. I know this because I was lucky enough to stumble past her house one night and try her urojo, or Zanzibar mix, which her son Ahmed was selling to passers-by from a stall outside their house. After trying the urojo and talking to Ahmed about his mother’s cooking, I…

Octopus Soup

A sure sign we must be nearing the coast is when I step off the bus in Mbeya and see a group of men standing over a table eating and talking animatedly. It’s dark by now and just one bright bulb suspended from a broom stick lights up a rickety wooden table, which on closer…

Moba and Afro’s Swahili Prawns with Coconut Rice

Nine months into the trip and we’ve hit the Tanzanian coast, hallelujah! The wait rewards us with coconut fringed white sand beaches and layer upon layer of crystal blue water, the kind of beaches you see on billboards in London tube stations when it’s pissing it down with rain and has been dark since 3…